Mauritania: Sand & Steel
Declan Kennedy
| 10-09-2025

· Travel team
Friends, craving a desert epic with a twist? Mauritania delivers golden canyons, palm-shaded oases, stone-built trading towns—and the legendary iron ore train across the Sahara.
This 6–7 day DIY route blends exact costs, realistic drive times, and smart prep so you can move confidently from wind-carved dunes to the Atlantic coast without missing the moments that make this journey unforgettable.
Why Go
Mauritania rewards curiosity. One day means date palms and natural pools; the next, labyrinthine ruins and star-heavy skies. Add a dust-blown ride atop the world’s longest freight train and you’ve got a once-in-a-lifetime story—on a budget that stays within reach.
Trip Map
A classic loop starts in Nouakchott and runs Terjit Oasis → Chinguetti → Ouadane → Choum (iron train) → coastal wetlands → back to Nouakchott. Total road time is 22–26 hours spread across several days, plus 10–14 hours on the train depending on conditions.
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Costs & Car
Expect $50–$85/day for a 4×4 or sturdy SUV with basic insurance; add $8–$15/day for a second driver. Fuel for the loop typically totals $90–$140. Local guides for desert segments run $35–$60 per day; worth it for sand tracks and town history. Guesthouses range $25–$60 per person with dinner and breakfast; simple camps are $20–$35 full board.
Entry Basics
Many travelers obtain a visa on arrival in Nouakchott; typical fees fall around $60–$80 in cash. Carry a return ticket, hotel contacts, and passport photos. Entry rules can change—verify a week before departure. Travel insurance is highly recommended for remote segments.
Day 1: Terjit
From Nouakchott, the drive to Terjit takes 5–6 hours on paved roads plus a short track. Cool off in a palm-fringed natural pool (site fee $3–$6) and sleep in a desert tented camp ($25–$40 with dinner). Evenings bring mild breezes; a thin fleece helps after sunset.
Day 2: Chinguetti
Continue 4–5 hours to Chinguetti, a UNESCO-listed former caravan hub of sandstone alleys and historic desert libraries. Join a $10–$20 guided walk to understand its traditional architecture and desert-adapted building techniques. Guesthouses with courtyards and rooftop stargazing typically cost $30–$55 with two meals.
Day 3: Ouadane
It’s 2–3 hours to Ouadane, another stone-built marvel set on a rocky spur with grand views of the sands below. Spend 2 hours wandering stepped lanes and restored granaries; modest site fees are common ($2–$5). Nearby, arrange a 4×4 outing to the Richat Structure (Eye of the Sahara)—a circular, eroded geologic dome visible from surrounding ridges. Half-day vehicles run $60–$90 total for the group.
Iron Ore Train
From Choum, aim for an afternoon or evening departure. The iron ore train is an open-car freight convoy with no tickets, services, or fixed seats. The ride to Nouadhibou lasts 10–14 hours. Bring goggles, dust mask or scarf, headlamp, gloves, tarp or thick blanket, 2–3 gallons of water per person, packed meals, and a power bank. Many travelers tip a local fixer $5–$15 for guidance to a suitable wagon and departure updates. It’s unforgettable—and very dusty.
Coast Reset
After the train, recover along the Atlantic shoreline between Nouadhibou and Nouakchott. Choose a simple lodge ($30–$60 with meals) and rinse off the desert with long beach walks. Boat outings on shallow channels typically cost $25–$45 per person for 1–2 hours; confirm life vests and start times tied to tides.
Back to Nouakchott
Drive 4–6 hours back to the capital on paved highways. In town, plan a leisurely seafood lunch ($8–$15 per main), a stroll on the sandy promenade at sunset, and final shopping for crafts—leatherwork, woven mats, and silver pieces—where $5–$20 buys small, packable gifts. Airport transfers run $10–$20 depending on distance.
What to Pack
Go light but purposeful: quick-dry layers, windproof shell, sun hat, sunglasses, and closed shoes with grip. Add a 10,000 mAh power bank, universal adapter, spare socks, electrolyte packets, basic first-aid, and a sleeping bag liner for camp and train. A dry bag protects electronics from dust.
Practical Tips
Start drives by 7:30 AM to bank cool hours and soft light. Download offline maps; coverage thins outside towns. Carry small USD bills for tips and sites. In sandy areas, lower tire pressure only with someone experienced and re-inflate afterward. Always keep an extra water stash in the vehicle.
Sample Budget
Per traveler, sharing a car and twin room:
Car + fuel (5–6 days): $170–$260
Lodging & meals: $160–$280
Guides & site fees: $60–$120
Train supplies & tips: $25–$45
Misc. & transfers: $30–$60
Estimated total: $445–$765 for a week, depending on room type and side trips.
Safety & Etiquette
Use registered guides for remote tracks. Tell your host the day’s plan and ETA. Keep valuables zipped and dust-proofed on the train. Ask before photographing people, and tread carefully around historic structures—thresholds and roofs can be fragile.
Conclusion
Lykkers, this route stitches palm pools, silent stone towns, a geologic giant, and a roaring steel convoy into one seamless adventure. What will headline your Mauritania story—the oasis swim, a rooftop under a starry sky, or the moment the iron train thunders to life? Share your pick and the one tip you’ll use first to make it happen.